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 <title>More Baking Chatter</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=67</link>
<description><![CDATA[In Alton Brown’s book, <u>I’m Just Here for More Food,</u> he explains that in baking the “devil is in the details.” He says, “Baking is all about sweating the small stuff.” I agree, cooking is more forgiving than baking. It is more about personal taste, and we can add and subtract without danger of failure---a little of this, a little more of that!  Baking just requires more precision than cooking.<br />
<br />
Flour, eggs, liquids (milk, water), sugar, fats (butter, shortening, oil) and leavening, (baking powder, baking soda, eggs, air, steam) are the staples for baking. I believe that knowing what function these play in the baked good is a big step toward becoming a better baker.<br />
<br />
If I could just pick one or two words that best remind me of their function, I would have to say flour is the backbone or structure in baked goods, and wheat flour is required to supply the glutin; eggs are there for many functions but for sure their proteins help the structure and they emulsify give help leaven. Milk is a big contributor but can be relpace with water or juice in most cases, but what milk actually brings to the table is flavor, browning, nutrition, and preservative. As for leavening agens, they well, make the product rise--or at least the steam and CO2 make it happen. Fats play a big role in making something satisfying in the mouth, especially butter that adds browning and richness and tenderizes. And of course sugar makes stuff sweet but also browns and tenderizes. <br />
<br />
So, just getting a little lesson in the contribution that these ingredients make in baked products, may help us to understand that we are truly putting in action some of the chemistry we learned in high school. Baking simply requires a little respect, I think. It is important to believe in the formula, and of course, use good technique in measuring those ingredients.  <br />
<br />
Unlike in cooking, exact measured amounts of ingredients is required in baking. Compactable ingredients like flour, one cup of which varies in weight at least 3-6 ounces depending on the humidity, must be spooned lightly into a dry ingredient volume measuring device. Oh, and level it off to be accurate. Don’t tap, scoop or compact it in anyway. Scooping using the measuring cup is a good way to add way too much ingredient, so avoid packing, except for brown sugar. <br />
<br />
After all ingredients are measured accurately, pans are prepared and oven set, it is time to mix. Here is another crucial place to understand the consequences of your actions. In cooking if you happen to put the onions in after the tomato sauce your spaghetti sauce will still work. But in baking, combining in the order dictated and with the proper tool, the right speed and timing is critical. <br />
<br />
By now you have much to assimilate so I will end this home ec lesson, only to pick it up another day with the critical points for mixing that make a big difference in everything from biscuits and muffins to pancakes. Basically the recipes are usually good---the failures are usually in our execution. Our knowledge can be good but our experience is a better indicator of how successful we are. Practice makes perfect, afteall. <br />
 <br />
Check out these 101 recipes to sharpen your baking technique.<br />
<br />
SWEET BUTTER SCONES 101<br />
<br />
2 cups All-Purpose flour <br />
6 Tablespoons granulated sugar<br />
1Tablespoon baking powder<br />
¾  teaspoon salt<br />
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter<br />
1 egg lightly beaten<br />
¾ cup heavy cream<br />
1 tsp vanilla	<br />
<i>Mise en place:</i> Preheat oven to 400°F. Pull out your baking sheet. (ungreased) <br />
Measure all ingredients in advance and keep separate. Check before starting to mix.<br />
<br />
<i>Measure:</i> Fluff up or sift the AP flour before measuring. Spoon it into a one cup measure and level with a straight edge tool (spatula). Measure each tablespoon of sugar and level off in separate container. Measure baking powder by first fluffing in the container, as it is very compactable, then level off. Dip ½ and ¼ measuring spoons into salt, level and place in separate container. Cut a stick of butter on the 6 TBS line, or measure butter by packing softened but not warm butter into a 1/4 cup measure, level off; plus pack into tablespoon measure, two times, for 6 TBS. Break egg into small bowl or cup and beat to blend yolk and white with a fork. Measure heavy cream using liquid measure and pour up to the ¾ line- when looking at eye level. (You bend down to it rather than holding cup up to your eye level). Measure 1 tsp. vanilla by using the 1 teaspoon measure. Measure over something so if it spills you can save it!<br />
<br />
<i>Mixing:</i> <u>Biscuit method:</u> Combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large bowl and stir it up to distribute evenly. Cut-in butter into flour mixture until crumbly using a hand-held metal pastry blender or use two table knives, cutting back and forth, until butter is completely distributed throughout the flour. Set aside.<br />
Blend liquid (egg, cream, vanilla) ingredients together. Pour liquid ingredients into the flour and stir together gently with a fork until liquid is on all parts of the flour. No more than 8-10 stirs. <br />
<br />
<i>Shape:</i> Dump onto lightly floured spot on your clean counter or cutting board. Pull dough together gently a few times until it holds its shape and pat into ½ inch high circle of dough. You don’t need a rolling pin with such a small amount of dough. Cut into triangles by cutting circle in half, and then half again until you have the desired size and number. Sprinkle with granulated sugar if desired. <br />
<br />
<i>Bake</i>at 400ºF for approximately 15 – 20 minutes, until golden brown on top and bottom. Cool on rack until you can handle. Then enjoy with butter, crème fraiche, jam or all three! <br />
<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=67</comments>
 <pubDate>Wed, 16 Apr 2008 16:27:00 -0600</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>Sardines, Quail, and Lamb too obscure?</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=69</link>
<description><![CDATA[This week Lenore got me thinking that my menus for our Small Plates with Wines classes may have strayed too far left of center. She said we usually have only one item that might be considered out side of mainstream. Neither of us believes lamb is in that category, but when served with two courses that are not so common, well, it just got both of us thinking. <br />
<br />
When class started we had some guests who actually reported they had signed up for this class because we were serving sardines. Unfortunately, sardines have just been named to the endangered list and we used fresh halibut instead. The sides and flavors on the plate were matched to the sardines, but went quite well with the halibut, too.  One guest told me that the halibut course was the favorite last night until we served the grass fed free range lamb from Anderson Valley. She was thrilled with its tenderness and couldn't believe how great the forbidden black rice went with it.<br />
<br />
In between those two courses, we slipped in a proscuitto wrapped sausage stuffed quail. The dinner companion of the guest who liked the lamb best was not as intrigued with the quail. He wished more quail flavor came through. My spicy pork sausage was the dominant flavor he said. Thinking about it now maybe Lenore's comment about serving quail, lamb and sardines on the same menu made me make the choice I did. I was trying to introduce the quail with some familiar flavors. I liked it allot, and would do it again, and yet will remember that feedback the next time I stuff quail.<br />
<br />
In last night's class there was several in fact the majority of people who had been here before. A group of ten women, escaping husbands and children, and bonded together for the last 20 years by college, seemed to enjoy last night's dinner the best of the three times they were here. <br />
<br />
What prompts me to write about this is that the answers to a chef's questions are usually right in front of him or her. I got the feedback that I needed to continue letting my inspirations take me into new territory for our menus. And by now I think I have made it clear to our guests that we want them to make our recipes their own. It always pleases me when they have no trouble saying what they might do differently. <br />
<br />
I am going to include that quail recipe here. Since I made the sausage, I suggest for more quail flavor, one might use less seasoning in the sausage or actually make it with ground quail rather than pork. Tell me what you think.<br />
<br />
<b><u><b>SPICY SAUSAGE STUFFED QUAIL</b></u><br />
<b>Spicy sausage:</b><br />
½ # pork shoulder, cubed**<br />
2/3 tsp dried thyme<br />
1 tsp sweet paprika<br />
2/3 tsp chili powder<br />
pinch cayenne pepper<br />
1 tsp cumin<br />
1/2 tsp. dried basil<br />
1/2 tsp sea salt<br />
1/2tsp ground black pepper<br />
1/4 tsp fresh ground coriander<br />
1/2- 1 TBS EVOO (add to make up for Pork fat when substituting all quail or chicken meat)	<br />
**You may substitute with 1/2# of ground quail and chicken thigh meat for the pork so more quail flavor comes through.<br />
<br />
<b>Sausage method :< /b> Place spices over cubed meat and toss to coat completely. Refrigerate. Grind after meat has rested under refrigeration for 30 minutes. Make a small meatball of the sausage and cook in a small pan or in the microwave to check the seasoning and mouth feel (fat). Proceed as directed below.<br />
<br />
<b>Quail Breasts</b><br />
4 each quail breasts<br />
4 oz sausage mixture<br />
4 slices Prosciutto<br />
4 rosemary spears, needles removed<br />
1 TBS light sesame oil<br />
As needed fresh grind of coriander<br />
1 lemon quarter<br />
<b>Quail method:</b> stuff breasts with 1 TBS sausage mixture; wrap breasts with Prosciutto and skewer with rosemary spear; season with sesame oil and coriander.  Sear quail on preheated grill to mark; remove and finish cooking in 375F oven for approximately 5-8 minutes or until it reaches 160F.  Spritz with lemon before serving.</b>]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=69</comments>
 <pubDate>Sat, 5 Apr 2008 17:30:58 -0600</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>Sardines, Quail, and Lamb too obscure?</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=68</link>
<description><![CDATA[This week Lenore got me thinking that my menus for our Small Plates with Wines classes may have strayed too far left of center. She said we usually have only one item that might be considered out side of mainstream. Neither of us believes lamb is in that category, but when served with two courses that are not so common, well, it just got both of us thinking. <br />
<br />
When class started we had some guests who actually reported they had signed up for this class because we were serving sardines. Unfortunately, sardines have just been named to the endangered list and we used fresh halibut instead. The sides and flavors on the plate were matched to the sardines, but went quite well with the halibut, too.  One guest told me that the halibut course was the favorite last night until we served the grass fed free range lamb from Anderson Valley. She was thrilled with its tenderness and couldn't believe how great the forbidden black rice went with it.<br />
<br />
In between those two courses, we slipped in a proscuitto wrapped sausage stuffed quail. The dinner companion of the guest, who liked the lamb best, was not as intrigued with the quail. He wished more quail flavor came through. My spicy chicken and pork sausage was the dominant flavor he said. Thinking about it now maybe Lenore's comment about serving quail, lamb and sardines on the same menu made me make the choice I did. I was trying to introduce the quail with some familiar flavors. I liked it allot, and would do it again, and yet will remember that feedback the next time I stuff quail.<br />
<br />
In last night's class there was several in fact the majority of people who had been here before. A group of ten women, escaping husbands and children, and bonded together for the last 20 years by college, seemed to enjoy last night's dinner the best of the three times they were here. <br />
<br />
What prompts me to write about this is that the answers to a chef's questions are usually right in front of him or her. I got the feedback that I needed to continue letting my inspirations take me into new territory for our menus. And by now I think I have made it clear to our guests that we want them to make our recipes their own. It always pleases me when they have no trouble saying what they might do differently. <br />
<br />
I am going to include that quail recipe here. Since I made the sausage, I suggest for more quail flavor, one might use less seasoning in the sausage or actually make it with ground quail rather than pork. Tell me what you think.<br />
<br />
<u><b>SPICY SAUSAGE STUFFED QUAIL</b></u><br />
<b>Spicy sausage:</b><br />
½ # pork shoulder, cubed**<br />
2/3 tsp dried thyme<br />
1 tsp sweet paprika<br />
2/3 tsp chili powder<br />
pinch cayenne pepper<br />
1 tsp cumin<br />
1/2 tsp. dried basil<br />
1/2 tsp sea salt<br />
1/2tsp ground black pepper<br />
1/4 tsp fresh ground coriander<br />
1/2- 1 TBS EVOO (add to make up for Pork fat when substituting all quail or chicken meat)	<br />
**You may substitute some ground quail and chicken thigh meat for the pork so more quail flavor comes through.<br />
<br />
<b>Sausage method :< /b> Place spices over cubed meat and toss to coat completely. Refrigerate. Grind after meat has rested under refrigeration for 30 minutes. Make a small meatball of the sausage and cook in a small pan or in the microwave to check the seasoning and mouth feel (fat). Proceed as directed below.<br />
<br />
<b>Quail Breasts</b><br />
4 each quail breasts<br />
4 oz sausage mixture<br />
4 slices Prosciutto<br />
4 rosemary spears, needles removed<br />
1 TBS light sesame oil<br />
As needed fresh grind of coriander<br />
1 lemon quarter<br />
<b>Quail method:</b> stuff breasts with 1 TBS sausage mixture; wrap breasts with Prosciutto and skewer with rosemary spear; season with sesame oil and coriander.  Sear quail on preheated grill to mark; remove and finish cooking in 375F oven for approximately 5-8 minutes or until it reaches 160F.  Spritz with lemon before serving.<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=68</comments>
 <pubDate>Sat, 5 Apr 2008 17:29:00 -0600</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>BAKING INTENSIVE SERIES</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=66</link>
<description><![CDATA[<br />
 Last week I had 2 and 3 students here from 9am – 3pm getting intense about basic baking techniques. I think they did fabulously, and it was great for me as we did kick out some product. Starting with baking powder biscuits and piecrust,  puff dough and sour dough, and finally angel food cake and gelato; it was a great review for me and a way to remember old times.<br />
<br />
To my good fortune, I was first trained as an apprentice in a large-scale bakery. Otherwise I might be like my many of my comrades who defer to the pastry chef for their entire baking repertoire, and mind you I do too for many things. Even Rachel Ray, the Food Network chef admonish herself for steering clear of baking. Why?<br />
<br />
I think it is the same for home cooks, too---perhaps lack of experience and maybe even fear! Fear of making piecrust is one comment we hear over and over. When it comes to putting together something that requires flour and ovens, it seems to stop even very accomplished cooks. But in baking, the recipes themselves are carefully written in ratios of ingredients that go together in a certain way to create the desired end result. Maybe it’s the science that scares cooks away from this side of the culinary arts. <br />
<br />
Ah, but the satisfaction of turning out simple banana bread when the bananas went too ripe, or getting up on a sleep-in Saturday and making a batch of blueberry muffins for breakfast is so worth the effort. Trust me, I know, I am not about to change anybody’s mind who, like Rachel Ray, has already drawn the line; but I think I might sway a few fence sitters into giving it a try. I can hear Lenore saying don’t even bother to teach me anything mechanical that has to do with the car, because she is not about to start now! So let’s focus on the fence sitters. Think of it as the home economics class that so many schools have dropped from the curriculum. Hmmm… maybe a contributing factor to why cooks don’t bake<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=66</comments>
 <pubDate>Wed, 2 Apr 2008 16:06:00 -0600</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>Ready for Spring and interns!</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=65</link>
<description><![CDATA[Lenore and I love this time of year when days are getting longer, supposedly warmer, though not yet, and the promise of spring is everywhere. We are especially aware when a short-lived sliver of sunlight briefly warms our front deck after a rainy morning and draws us outside. We all seem to smile more. But the best indicator that spring is about to “pop” is when asparagus and Spring Chinook Salmon make an appearance on our menus.<br />
<br />
In addition to planning and ramping up for the new “season,” we have been preparing the studio bedroom in our building for the culinary interns that are coming to learn and work with us in three month intervals. We have been quite successful with the quality of individuals that come here, and yet it was becoming more challenging because of the lack of affordable housing in Cannon Beach. Our quick remodel, well maybe not so quick, has opened the door to many more potential interns to come. <br />
<br />
Some of you might remember the room downstairs in this building as a former beauty salon with charming dark wood work wainscoting, and a not so charming hair washing sink in the middle. We converted that sink to a little kitchenette sink and counter cupboard from IKEA; adding a refrigerator and small microwave oven to complete. We then replaced carpet and painted the walls and ceiling. But the big news is the shower that we punched into the little bathroom. Under the capable direction of friend, Eric Nagel, our Tolovana neighbor (he and wife, Sarah own the Surfcrest Market), I faced my admitted fear of dry walling. There is a definite sweet satisfaction when one accomplishes a goal of something completely out of his/her comfort zone. In some ways it is just like cooking is for people who don’t feel comfortable in the kitchen. Sometime our guests are intimidated by a French omelet, and we know to keep encouraging them to push past their fear and go for the satisfaction that comes from “doing it themselves.” <br />
<br />
The first person to use the studio bedroom is <b>Wendy Noon</b>, who is with us end of March through June. She is in the homestretch of her formal training as a chef from Oregon Culinary Institute in Portland. Of the studio bedroom, she says it is “awesome,” but then so far she describes most things that please her as “awesome.” And luckily, most things do please her! Having interns is a good thing! Keeps me young and on my game! <br />
<br />
<b>RECIPE FOR THE WEEK:</b><br />
PAN-SEARED CORIANDER SALMON    <br />
4 ea 4 oz salmon, block cut<br />
Fresh ground Coriander, to taste<br />
Sea Salt, to taste<br />
EVOO as needed*<br />
<b>Method: </b>Ask your butcher to cut salmon filets into 4 oz blocks, so all will cook the same rate. Prepare salmon for searing by brushing with EVOO and season with sea salt, and ground coriander. Preheat pan over med high heat. When hot add approximately 1 TBS EVOO to the pan and immediately add the pieces of salmon, top side down. After 2 minutes, turn over and cook 1-2 more minutes or just till au pointe, and the center is just turning opaque. (Au pointe, in French means just to the point of done); serve immediately with fresh asparagus for an early spring repast. (*Don't worry about searing with EVOO because the second you put the fish into the pan, the oil will temper and not over heat--and you will get the benefit of the flavor of EVOO and its healthful qualities too).<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=65</comments>
 <pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:05:43 -0600</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>SOUP</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=64</link>
<description><![CDATA[<b>Soup </b>is so appealing in the winter, and as I embark upon a cleansing diet to make up for holidays and vacation power-eating, I am inspired by the benefits of eating freshly made soups.  <br />
<br />
More encouragement came last evening at friends for dinner. The first course was a delicious Tomato-Basil soup that I would not have thought to make in the middle of winter. It was absolutely great and I find myself modifying one of my guiding principles—“eat only in season,” to say, as in this case, use canned tomatoes that were organically grown and canned in their season somewhere! And making another exception for the fresh basil from CA, I am ready to say I would repeat this one any season. I know for some restaurants, tomato basil soup is actually a staple all year round, and what keeps it consistent is the canned tomato product! <br />
<br />
Our hostess graciously dictated over the phone what she had done to make the soup, as she had not used a recipe. She winged it! Good for her! Cooking without recipes is the sign of a confident cook. She did something key to her success that really made a difference with her soup. She roasted the canned organic tomato paste in a little butter on top of the stove to caramelize it. With Marni’s permission, I have included the recipe here exactly as dictated.<br />
<br />
For the remainder of this article I thought I would offer a basic recipe for a simple stock soup base, from which to create different soups by varying the add-ins, such as winter root vegetables and hearty grains such as barley, Farro, and beans. There are no set rules for the add-ins; simply experiment with the combinations I recommend in the recipe or wing it and make it totally yours. <br />
<br />
Quick two-step stock making is not only easy it is efficient because in our busy lives, cooking for more than one use is a great timesaver. I am also suggesting chicken stock because it is so versatile, and easily creates the basis for two or more meals.<br />
<br />
I am learning that that in most busy households today cooks do not roast chicken bones and make stock the old fashioned way, but before you grab the commercial stock, consider the quick chicken stock that starts with a whole chicken as in my recipe. It takes only an hour or so, saving time and money, especially when you consider whole chicken prices compared to the same chicken cut-up. <br />
<br />
Don’t leave it whole as smaller pieces release flavors faster into the liquid. Don’t worry about the proper way to cut it up. Just cut through the bones and all if you want, leaving the two breast halves in tack as much as possible for secondary use. What makes the stock richly colored and flavored in a relative short time is the braising of the chicken pieces before adding the rest of the liquid. Braising creates browning or caramelizing, intensifying the flavors. Be sure to retrieve the chicken breast-halves first, after about 30-minutes, and cool them for another meal. (De-bone the breast and throw the bones back into the pot if you want as they still have more flavors to give up into the stock). Add the boiling water and simmer about an hour in total. Remove the remaining chicken pieces and strain the liquid. You can throw away the mirepoix of veggies with the bones, because they may have some bone fragments and they are usually pretty flavorless by now. <br />
<br />
After straining stock through a fine sieve, I usually quick chill it to skim off the solid fat, and then divide the liquid stock into 2 smaller portions. Freeze one half immediately for later use as a base for a quick sauce, another soup or the liquid in a risotto. Simmer the remaining half and add in one of the finishing touches as recommended in my recipe.<br />
<br />
People tell me they like making enough soup to have leftovers. But when reheated the vegetables and grains, and especially noodles, tend to overcook and become mushy. One way to keep leftover soup fresh is by borrowing the concept of Vietnamese pho-bac, where fresh cooked vegetables and meats are placed in a warm bowls and covered with the steaming hot broth. A basic chicken broth keeps much better than full-on soup, so use only small amounts at a time. For chicken noodle soup or other pasta soups, hold out the pasta until the last minutes of cooking, and only make what you need for the one meal. Change out the vegetables and meats and you have a completely new fresh soup with the same chicken broth!<br />
<br />
Here are a few more soup making techniques worth considering:<br />
<br />
Cut vegetables uniformly so they cook at the same rate. If you prefer a variety of cuts (julienne, dice, or even rough-cut), blanch them separately so they all have the same finish cook time together. <br />
<br />
Mirepoix is a traditional flavoring trinity that consists of 2 parts onion and one part each carrot and celery, and should be cut into small dice for my quicker stock described here.<br />
<br />
Bouquet garni is a spice pouch made by laying fresh +/or dried herbs and spices onto cheesecloth or a coffee filter, then tying the bundle with kitchen twine. Drop the pouch into the soup, tying the other end of the string to the handle of the pot for easy removal. <br />
<br />
Stock, stews, braises are easily defatted by quickly chilling the cooked product allowing the fat to rise to the top. When solid it is easily removed, as desired. <br />
<br />
Beef Broth can be very mild made traditionally from roasted bones. To get real beefy flavor be sure to use meaty, bone-in, tougher cuts of beef (shank or chuck) and braise the beef first before covering with water to extract the flavors into the broth. <br />
<br />
To thicken soups and stews without roux, puree the mirepoix into the liquid, then add in freshly blanched vegetables. <br />
<br />
Pureeing soup can be accomplished by using a stick blender or bar blender. I prefer these to the food processor, which often leaks or spills over. <br />
<br />
Carefully salt soups remembering that as soup simmers, water evaporates and concentrates and intensifies flavors. Be especially aware when using cured meats such as bacon in soups. <br />
<br />
For Italian soups, especially tomato based, add the leftover rind of good aged parmesan or Romano cheese; it adds flavor and makes the cheese go farther. <br />
<U><b>Two-step SOUP Step 1. Soup Base</b></U><br />
1 whole chicken, cut up small pieces<br />
Mirepoix: 1 onion, 1 celery rib, 1 carrot, rough chopped<br />
EVOO as needed<br />
1 bouquet garni consisting of 1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs thyme, 4-6 parsley stems, 2-4 white peppercorns.<br />
1 tsp salt<br />
3 quarts boiling water	<br />
<b><i>Method:</i></b> Brown chicken pieces and mirepoix in hot Dutch oven in EVOO. When brown, add about 1-3 cups of water (do not cover chicken) and continue braising the chicken for 30 min. Remove chicken breast meat, de-bone, return bones to the pot, and chill breast meat for another use. Add the rest of the water to the pot with the bouquet garni. Simmer 30 – 45 more minutes. Remove large pieces of chicken and bone, reserve. Strain liquid broth through a fine mesh sieve. Chill broth until fat rises to the top and is easily removed. Pick through chicken and bones when cool, and remove just the meat; chill until needed. Discard bones, skin, bouquet garni and scraps.<br />
<b>To finish base:</b><br />
2 TBS EVOO2 onion, diced<br />
2 carrots, diced<br />
1 celery, diced<br />
3-5 cloves garlic, minced	<br />
<b>Method: </b> Heat oil in dutch oven. Add  & sauté onions, carrots, and celery until vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue cooking. Add quick broth (reserved above), bring to a simmer, and simmer 1 to 2 minutes.  Cool half of this base in shallow metal pan in the refrigerator then freeze for another use. Finish the soup in the dutch oven with one of the following suggestions.<br />
<br />
<U><b>Step 2: SOUP SUGGESTIONS added to 1-quart simmering soup base</b></U><br />
<b><U>A. Chicken Noodle:</U></b><br />
2 cup picked chicken reserved from step 1, chopped<br />
2 cups cooked egg noodles<br />
2 TBS fresh parsley, chopped	<br />
<b>Method:</b>  Add picked chicken from step 1 to the soup base. Add cooked noodles. Bring back to simmer and reheat thoroughly. Serve immediately; garnish with fresh chopped parsley.<br />
<b><U>B. Potato broccoli:</U></b><br />
1 bunch fresh broccoli, trimmed, cut into small florets<br />
2 large potatoes, <br />
1”cubes, peeled, cubed to 1”<br />
Sea salt, pepper, coriander to taste<br />
EVOO as needed¼ tsp pepper flakes, optional	<br />
<b>Method:</b>    Add the potatoes to simmering soup base first 5 min. then add broccoli and cook until very tender but not mushy. Add seasonings to taste and pepper flakes if desired. Puree vegetables using bar blender in small batches. Taste and adjust seasonings; reheat if needed. Serve immediately hot, or chill and serve cold. Float small amount of EVOO on top. <br />
<br />
<U><b>C. Italian Sausage & Bean Soup:</b> </U><br />
½ # sautéed spicy Italian style ground sausage<br />
2 cups cooked cannellini beans<br />
3 cups ribbon cut Swiss chard, ribs removedSeason with sea salt, pepper and coriander	<br />
<b>Method:</b>  Brown sausage; add to reserved hot soup base. Add beans and bring to simmer. Add swiss chard and cooked additional 10 minutes until chard is bright green and tender. Garnish with grated aged parmesan cheese, if desired.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Marni Postlewait’s Tomato-Basil Soup</b><br />
<b>Mirepoix:</b> <br />
1 onion, small dice,<br />
2 celery, small dice, <br />
1-2 carrot, small dice<br />
EVOO as needed<br />
2 TBS butter6 oz tomato paste<br />
28 oz organic tomatoes in juice<br />
¼ tsp. pepper flakes<br />
1 large bunch basil, chopped<br />
2 cup chicken broth, as needed<br />
½ cup heavy cream + 2 TBS <br />
½ tsp salt1 tsp sugar, if needed	<br />
<b>Method:</b> Sauté mirepoix in small amount of EVOO until tender. Remove from pan; reserve. Add butter to pan, add tomato paste and stir as it browns and caramelizes. Add tomatoes and juice, pepper flakes and reserved mirepoix. Add first heavy cream, 2 cups chicken stock a little at a time until desired flavor is reached. Set aside enough basil for garnish, and stir in the rest. Puree soup using a hand blender. Season with salt. If needed to reduce the acid of the tomato, add up to ½ tsp sugar.At service, place soup in warm bowls, drizzle in a swirl of heavy cream and garnish with reserved basil. Serve immediately.<br />
<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=64</comments>
 <pubDate>Sat, 9 Feb 2008 11:09:07 -0700</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>Power Dining-out</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=63</link>
<description><![CDATA[With my nose to the grindstone working in my own place, it is harder to keep up with what’s happening on the city restaurant scene. We ate out so regularly in the cities we have lived that keeping current wasn’t an issue then. Now when customers ask us if we’ve eaten here or there, we too often haven’t even heard of the restaurants. So when the opportunity arises and we find ourselves in the city again, we’ve come up with a new way to get it done. It’s fun, quick and even efficient –we call it power dining.  On a recent trip to Seattle for example, we got together with three of our friends and hit 9 places in 12 hours. We started at with a couple new bakeries and one old fav, and ended at a fine new Italian restaurant in old town Ballard, followed by dessert at Palace Kitchen, another old favorite.<br />
<br />
We are always on the lookout for menu/recipe inspiration to stay competitive in a marketplace whose guests also keep up on the latest food trends, and power dining is our way.  Since we are taking a few weeks off this winter, we decided to spend a couple days getting know the restaurants of Portland. Considering the suggestions by customers, other chefs, along with restaurant reviews I outline our weekend. Our goal is to go to as many restaurants in one day as we can, staggering reservations based on walking or driving times. Walking is preferred. <br />
<br />
Now you might wonder how we eat that much.  Let me assure you that this undertaking works best with like-minded friends so we can taste more stuff and leave less food on our plates! This speed eating is a blast, yet it is research that drives it. It is not unlike how I imagine a restaurant critic approaches a review, except that our discussion is always positive, focusing on the creative process, techniques in execution and what changes/options one of us might utilize if repeated back home.  <br />
<br />
In Portland our culinary whirlwind was less aggressive than Seattle. It began a little later with lunch at Blue Hour, so named for the romantic “blue hour” in the evening as sun begins to fade. The romance we found there was the way chef Kenny Giambalvo took some of the classics and gave them a fresh spin. Clearly there’s talent in the kitchen that starts with great ingredients so that even a grilled chicken and truffle mashed potatoes is executed so well it is new again. I really enjoyed learning that this kitchen brings in whole pig and uses every part of it. We sampled the slow roasted suckling pig of pulled pork butt wrapped in a thin crepe that is pan seared into a crusty oversized egg roll and is as good as it sounds.<br />
<br />
Dinner at Clyde Common was a surprise.  This funky respite greets you with communal tables and a happening bar area. We were seated beside a party that was well underway in their dining and we took their lead on some of our choices.  We began slowly with a seared squid stuffed with fennel sausage and bathed in a broth of sherry vinegar and squid ink. It came with perfectly cooked garbanzo beans that popped with every bite. A martini with a hint of smoky scotch, peaty and rich, complimented the dish perfectly.  Following our neighbors lead, we ordered the “Poutine” – French fries, gravy, Gruyere and Foie gras torchon.  Put simply, fries with gravy, duck liver, covered in cheese that takes bar food to another level, not to mention our blood pressure. Next it was a short walk to Saucebox, a Pan-Asian restaurant featuring sushi and diverse menu items. We ordered the appetizer platter to try several options at once. It is especially nice to see assortment plates on the menu when power dining. In this case the sampling included one of the reasons we want to go there in the first place. Tapioca dumplings were an interesting texture of large unsweetened tapioca pearls wrapped around chicken, peanuts, cilantro and garlic oil and enhanced by a tamarind dip; as good as we had heard. <br />
<br />
As I often say in our classes, I almost always order duck when it is on the menu. It is my version of a collectible. I collect orders of duck, making mental memories of its characteristics. This one was right up there, especially with the Thai ginger gimlet we ordered to go with. Specialty drinks was another must at the Saucebox.    <br />
<br />
Breakfast on Saturday took us to the highly touted Kenny & Zuke’s Delicatessen where pastrami is the mainstay. It was tender with a slight salty background and pungent smoke that came through with a burst.  Piled on top of classic rye, it was made only slightly better by my slathering of coarse mustard and horseradish. <br />
<br />
Our evening dining started at 5PM with the arrival of Cannon Beach friends, Rob and Kristin, who had recently returned from a trip to New York City and were pretty familiar with power dining, though this is the first time they heard the label. Leveraging our ability to try more things, and me as the designated driver, the four of us set out to discover what’s new, delicious, and worthy of recreating at home. We began with an encore at Clyde Common since we had time before our first reservation at Hiroshi, and ended at VooDoo Donuts! If that sounds extreme take a quick look at our entire weekend itinerary. After some amazing dishes and a new wine blend discovery by Sinnean called Abbendente, we were back to the hotel by midnight with full bellies and many new food memories.<br />
	<br />
The next morning we got up late, checked out and drove for dim sum at Wong’s King Seafood, whose chefs have received international recognition. The shear volume of food that came to our table probably matched what we had consumed the entire night before. It was quite good and takes care of our dim sum fix for a long time.<br />
<br />
Admittedly our approach to culinary research seems extreme, but it gets the job done. Power dining is like taking a bus tour when arriving in a new town so you can see all the sights in just a few hours, and discover where you want to focus your time while there. We know we want go back to Portland and hit the places we couldn’t get to this time such as Le Pigeon, Country Cat Dinner House, Pok Pok, and Moonstruck Chocolate, and to return to a few of our discoveries this visit. In fact, so many good restaurants still to see we will be power dining in Portland again another day!<br />
<br />
    <b><u>Power dining in Portland</u></b><br />
         <b>Blue Hour </b>(250 NW 13th avenue   503.226.3394) for slow roasted suckling pig <br />
         <b>Clyde Common </b>(SW 10th and stark 503.228.3333) for grilled whole fish with winter tabouli, pistachio and pomegranate molasses or the crispy pork belly with blood orange marmalade<br />
         <b>Saucebox </b>(214 SW Broadway 503.241.3393) for tapioca dumplings and updated martinis<br />
         <b>Kenny and Zuke’s deli</b> (1038 SW Stark 503.222.3354) – pastrami, pastrami, pastrami<br />
         <b>Hiroshi’s</b> (926 NW 10th Ave 503.619.0580) for sushi or whatever owner Hiro fancies that night – the tuna belly with ponzu sauce and steamed monk liver over miso dressing was fantastic!<br />
        <b>Wildwood (</b>1221 NW 21st 503.248.9663) for pork rillette and foie gras with zinfandel braised cippoline<br />
        <b>Paley’s Place </b>(1204 NW 21st Ave 503.243.2403) for either the house specialty of razor clams with a petite cassoulet and bacon wrapped radicchio; and the emmer faro, wild mushrooms with roasted squash and black truffles.<br />
        <b>VooDoo Donuts </b>(22 SW 3rd Ave 503241.4704) for crispy bacon maple bar!<br />
        <b>Wong’s king Seafood </b>(8733 SE Division 503.788.8883) – dim sum! Plan to wait.<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=63</comments>
 <pubDate>Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:51:00 -0700</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>The Comfort of cheese: so many cheeses---where to start ?</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=62</link>
<description><![CDATA[     Everyone seems to like cheese! Me, too, but I have to admit this is the only time of year that I allow myself to indulge with extra cheese in my cooking. Something about chilly weather that inspires the comfort of cheese.  But where to start? <br />
     I taste as much as I can. When shopping Metropolitan Market in Seattle or Whole Foods in any city, I linger as long as I can next to the cheese display. So many cheeses, and they are all available to taste! There in lies the root source of my education. As with wine—if it tastes good to me, it is a good match. So I usually tell our customers to taste a new one each time you shop where there is a well versed cheese monger. Most of them will ask you a few questions about what you like before making their suggestions. Then taste and learn! <br />
     With a world of wonderful cheeses to pick from, how is it that the only cheese with “American” as a name is not a cheese at all but a cheese-food. American cheese is a blend or processed product that is only flavored with aged cheese. It may be closer to that ubiquitous cheese ball that surfaces this time of year. I am risking my reputation, but I admit to liking both! Of course, there are many American cheese varieties, Colby, Monterey Jack, and Humboldt Fog, to name a few. American cheeses are often judged inferior to French and other European cheeses.  One factor that has changed in our favor is the recent allowance for unpasteurized milk in cheese production.  As long as the producer ages the raw milk cheese for a minimum of 60 days, along with careful testing and maintenance, local artisan producers now have advantage to their European counterparts.  The majority of these cheeses are “farmstead,” that is, cows raised and milked on the farm and the subsequent cheese is also made on the farm. This has brought back a renewed interest in American cheese. In fact some of my professional magazines are encouraging restaurants to add a cheese course or cheese plate for a finale, a practice that is more Euro than American. <br />
     Here in Oregon there are some amazing artisan cheeses that for us stack up to the best.  One example is from the Rogue Creamery in Central Point, Oregon.  In 2003 at the London World Cheese Award they were voted best blue cheese. This was the first time an American cheese factory had won this high honor.  We carry theirs and other fine Oregon produced cheeses in our own shop.  These notables include Willamette Valley Farmstead cheeses, Fraga farms goat cheeses, and Rivers Edge Cheeses.<br />
     Our guests really appreciate being introduced to what is good local cheese on our cheese boards, where we highlight only the best on a marble slab presentation. Pick up a scrap of marble from anywhere that sells it for a reasonably priced decorative cheese platter. Reserve the cheese balls for a plate of their own.<br />
    And if cheese balls are too retro for you or you want to avoid risking a food snob’s criticism, we suggest a sophisticated alternative, a stuffed fresh mozzarella. You can either stretch homemade mozzarella, or just soak purchased fresh mozzarella in hot salted water and reshape it into a log with a spiral filling or even a stuffed round shape. The fillings can be fresh herbs, vegetables, proscuitto, anchovies, pesto, nuts, etc. See our recipe for fresh rolled mozzarella logs.<br />
     And another twist on an old theme, we make a sweet version of a cheese ball. See our recipe that is good with a chilled sparkling wine or winter punch. <br />
<b>MASCARPONE WITH DATES AND TRUFFLE HONEY</b><br />
3-5 dates, pitted<br />
1 cup Mascarpone<br />
½ cup Cream Cheese<br />
2 TBS plus 1 cup Toasted Hazelnuts, finely chopped<br />
½ tsp vanilla<br />
1-2 tsp truffle flavored honey, or plain honey<br />
<b>Method:</b><br />
In food processor, process dates into paste. Add cheeses, vanilla, first hazelnuts and 1 tsp honey. (Taste before adding second tsp honey. If you want it sweeter, add, but it should be plenty sweet from the dates.)<br />
Chill for 30 minutes then shape into one ball or a few small balls. Roll into more toasted chopped hazelnuts before serving with apple/pear slices, Pistacio biscotti,Gingersnaps, Ritz crackers, or Carr’s Wheat crackers. This makes a great filling for wine poached pears, with or without nuts, too. <br />
<br />
<b>FRESH MOZZARELLA WITH STUFFING</b><br />
1 gallon water<br />
8 TBS sea salt<br />
1# fresh mozzarella curds (or substitute 1# fresh mozzarella balls - proceeding from second paragraph)<br />
1 medium bowl filled with ice water<br />
Cutting board<br />
Rolling pin<br />
¼ cup sun dried tomato pesto<br />
1 bunch basil leaves<br />
3 TBS pine nuts or other<br />
Plastic film<br />
<b>Method:</b> bring water and salt to a simmer; meanwhile cut curds into small pieces, approx. ½” and place into a medium bowl; pour simmering water over curds and stir to begin melting curds and forming long strands; lift curds up with spoon and allow gravity to pull them down.  Dip your hands in the ice water so that you can handle the heated curds.  With one hand on the spoon, use the other hand to assist in stretching; continue stretching until curds develop a shine to them; form them into a ball and plunge into ice water to set up.<br />
<br />
Remove house made balls from ice water (or purchased balls if using), and place back into simmering salt water to re-stretch.  Remove as soon as cheese appears to be malleable. Place on a cutting board and roll as thin as possible without tearing, into a square like shape.  Spread a thin layer of sun dried tomato pesto over the cheese, followed by several leaves of fresh basil. Sprinkle with pine nuts.  Roll the cheeses into a log; wrap the log tightly with plastic film.  This will help the log set up firmly. Refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour before slicing.<br />
<br />
<b>PISTACHIO BISCOTTI</b><br />
2 cups AP flour<br />
2 tsp baking powder<br />
6 oz sugar<br />
3 oz white dry breadcrumbs<br />
8 oz whole pistachio nuts<br />
3 TBS toasted sesame seeds<br />
½ tsp orange flower water (if you can find it)	<br />
½ tsp vanilla extract<br />
½ tsp anise extract<br />
2 TBS orange juice<br />
2  large eggs<br />
<br />
egg wash--(1 egg and small amount of water blended)<br />
powdered sugar<br />
<br />
<b>Method:</b> sift flour with baking powder; add sugar and bread crumbs; add nuts. Combine wet ingredients and flavorings and gradually add into dry ingredients to form a firm dough. Roll into two 16” long logs; place onto baking sheet pan, brush with egg wash and dust with powdered sugar. Bake at 350ºF for about 25 minutes until golden brown; cool about 30 minutes. Slice log on angle into 1/2 inch cookies (or thinner if desired) and place cut side down on parchment lined pan. Second bake at 375ºF for approximately 15 minutes or until sides are golden brown.<br />
Cool. Serve or store in air tight container.<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=62</comments>
 <pubDate>Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:10:56 -0700</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>IT’S ALL ABOUT PASSION…. BY BOB NERONI</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=60</link>
<description><![CDATA[<br />
Imagine going to a foreign place where you don’t speak the language and where your main objective is to work in one of the world’s best restaurants! Imagine asking to work for free for the sheer opportunity to learn. You take your resume to one of the chefs in the kitchen who tell you they will call if anything comes available. You wait two weeks and get the email to start work. Arriving in the kitchen, there are at least 20 other chefs working “apprentissages’   or ‘stage for short. <br />
<br />
Well, for many it is a privilege to experience this world.  And for Kyo, our former sous chef, the time spent abroad was quote, “life changing”. Culinary education isn’t enough for some chefs. The opportunity to travel the world and work with chefs in a variety of settings can help to mold a chef’s future style and direction.<br />
<br />
So I sat down with Kyo to have a conversation about his recent eight month sojourn in San Sebastian and Barcelona, Spain. <br />
Bob: How did you pick Spain?	<br />
Kyo: I wanted to improve my Spanish, so I enrolled in a 8-week language class in San Sebastian. It was pretty intense and I came away knowing a bit more, but have a long way to go. I could understand when the person speaking knew I needed them to slow down, otherwise the sheer speed of the language slowed my progress. <br />
<br />
Bob: So it was while you were learning Spanish that you started looking for the opportunity. Were you particular about working at Mugaritz, under chef Andoni Luis?<br />
Kyo: Yes, it was my first and only choice. I gave one of the chefs my resume and was told I would be contacted. It was more than two weeks before I received an email to report to work.<br />
<br />
Bob: So what was your schedule? <br />
Kyo: I worked a lot of hours—20/day. It makes a 12-hour shift look like nothing. I’m amazed by my own stamina. They didn’t serve dinner on Sunday night and closed on Monday, so we had about 36 hours off. The first 8 of those I slept, but I made up for it on Monday. Can you see 20 chefs away from home letting off steam from the previous week in the kitchen? It wasn’t pretty.<br />
<br />
Bob: What was the hardest thing about the experience?<br />
Kyo: The language barrier, long hours and some real abusive language. I didn’t speak as well as the others but I always understood when I was being yelled at. <br />
<br />
Bob: Why do you think they used that approach?<br />
Kyo: It is what drives the quality. They had so many chefs in the kitchen they had to keep everyone on the edge to maintain quality. <br />
<br />
Bob: What was the facility like? <br />
Kyo: Beautiful! They have several kitchens and lots of space including a service kitchen, the big production kitchen that is kept at 12 deg C, the family kitchen for cooking the staff meals, and the pastry kitchen also used for catering. They do a large business catering weddings, only weddings, for 150-200 people. It is what gets them through the winter. The kitchens were very well equipped. Any tool you can imagine was there!<br />
<br />
Bob: So the restaurant is a seasonal business?<br />
Kyo: Yes, the restaurant is well known but is a long way from Barcelona on a windy country road. The tourists come when it’s warm on the coast and that is the main season. The restaurant only seats 50 guests, and yet we had up to 32 chefs in the kitchen some days. <br />
<br />
Bob: With so many chefs, how did they decide what to assign to you?<br />
Kyo: I was lucky to end up as Chef de Partie, pescadoes or fish cook. I started like everyone outside at the barbeque grill. Heck some guys never get past that station. I went on to the aperitif station. Even though it was an 11 course degustation menu, meaning a tasting of foods, they also served three appetizers to start that were mostly new every night. So really it was 14 courses and I had to learn new stuff every night. <br />
<br />
Bob: How much does that cost?<br />
Kyo: About 115€.<br />
Bob: Wow that is good. Did you have any creative input on the appetizers?<br />
Kyo: Oh no, there are four chefs that do nothing but imagination and creative research, three fourths of which never makes it to the plate. They told me what to do. In that station, I was always in the weeds. They would tell me so fast in the native Spanish that I couldn’t get even half of it. I also realized they usually assign two people on that station, but I was always alone. I had to ask anyone standing nearby what the heck chef said.<br />
<br />
Bob: Were they testing you or just believing in you that you could do it?<br />
Kyo: Don’t know. I kept asking for help. I was doing 3 appetizers per guest, about 105 plates a night by myself.<br />
<br />
Bob: So what kinds of appetizers did you do? <br />
Kyo: They always did one of their signature dishes, a potato encrusted with clay. Yes it was natural gray clay (Kaolin) mixed with a dark squid stock, lactose and water, that was sprayed over beautiful little round cooked potatoes. Each potato was on a skewer and placed on a piece of Styrofoam so it could dry completely in an oven of about 70 deg C. When dry and cool enough to handle, the skewer was removed and the small hole covered with more wet clay and dried again. The potato itself would stay warm the whole time because the clay kept it warm. It was served on a plate of river rocks and when the waiter brought it to the table he would tell the guest which ones to eat! They served it with a garlic ali-oli.<br />
 <br />
Another appetizer was just a simple goats milk crème fraiche and beets cooked sous vide style, i.e. in a vacuum bag at low temperature for long time.<br />
<br />
Bob: What was your favorite thing about the experience?<br />
Kyo: The techniques! They were incredibly innovative. I think we actually have more variety and better quality ingredients here in America. But techniques and tools were amazing. They would use a compact Roner, kind of a portable bain marie that maintains constant temperature and keeps the water gently moving for sanitation. It was used to make incredible vegetables and meats. They come out incredibly tender and naturally flavored. You don’t have to do much more to them for service. They used laboratory beakers for serving sauces and such. They finished stuff at the tableside like adding the consommé to a dish.<br />
<br />
Bob: So this restaurant has three Michelin stars and on the best restaurants in the world list. What do you think is required to receive such honors these days?<br />
Kyo: Innovation. You have to be inventive. It isn’t enough to do the classics-- you need to refine them.<br />
<br />
Well, needless to say talking with Kyo is very energizing and reminds me why I am in this profession. I know why he has returned 20 lbs lighter! His passion is what makes celebrity but what makes Kyo genuine is he is driven by making the next great dish, not celebrity. He is already looking for the next opportunity, perhaps with Chef Ethan Stowell in Seattle, and eventually, I am sure, we’ll see him in his own place. I asked if he’d like to return to EVOO sometime soon and cook with us. He likes the idea. We will keep you posted. For more about Mugaritz restaurant, visit www.mugaritz.com.<br />
<br />
Now for this week’s recipe. Here’s one of Kyo’s own creations that earned him recognition while working at Mona’s Bistro in the Greenlake area of Seattle. This one was named by Seattle Metropolitan Magazine as one of the 15 legendary dishes of Seattle. Enjoy!<br />
<br />
Arugula Salad<br />
Serves 2<br />
 <br />
6 oz baby organic arugula<br />
4 oz roasted red pepper, peeled and deseeded, torn into 1/4 inch pieces<br />
4 oz Humboldt Fog chevre, 2 slices<br />
3 tbsp honey<br />
1 tsp white truffle oil<br />
2 tsp. verjus <br />
1.5 tbsp arbequina olive oil<br />
salt and pepper to taste<br />
 <br />
1. Combine honey and truffle oil, mix well with fork.<br />
2. Mix arugula, roasted red peppers, verjus and olive oil in mixing bowl. <br />
3. Add salt and pepper to desired taste.<br />
4. Arrange salad mixture on 2 plates. Mound with some volume.<br />
5. Add cheese slices as desired to the salad. <br />
6. Take truffle honey and using a teaspoon, drizzle over finished salads. Serve immediately.<br />
]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=60</comments>
 <pubDate>Fri, 30 Nov 2007 11:46:11 -0700</pubDate>
</item><item>
 <title>THERE’S MORE TO SQUASH THAN ZUCCHINI by Robert Neroni</title>
 <link>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=61</link>
<description><![CDATA[Ever since a kid, I have had an aversion to zucchini squash; maybe because it was always steamed. A vegetable that is virtually all water to begin with just seems to dissolve into a lack luster and soggy pool on the plate. As my culinary career advanced so has my repertoire with all things squash. Guests are generally surprised at the varieties available throughout the year and especially here in Oregon in the fall and winter.  I remember one of our first catering requests came from a group of doctors who wanted a Vegan experience, that is, no animal products what so ever.  Thanks to the local farms combined with fall harvest, we were able to serve breakfast, lunch and dinner for several days without repeating a single vegetable preparation.   <br />
Squash comes in a variety of shapes and sizes weighing in just under a pound to up to fifteen pounds and more.  Flesh tones range from green, golden–yellow to bright orange.  Color in squash does not dictate flavor or sugar content.  Winter squash take approximately three months longer to mature than the summer varieties and best harvested when the weather turns colder.  Labeling squash by season is somewhat misleading today. Originally named because they store well in cool cellars, the winter varieties are actually available all year. Still our palates have grown accustomed to heavy thick skinned varieties showing up on our plates when the weather turns cold.   <br />
Special care should be taken when prepping the winter thick skin varieties since it is difficult to get a steady grip on the squash with your knife. Peeling these thick skin spheres also proves difficult, which is probably why so many are cooked in their skins till soft enough to scoop out the pulp. Many winter varieties of squash store up to 6 months in a well ventilated dry place at about 50°-55°F, and will keep best if their stems are in tack.<br />
My favorite thing about Winter squash is that they lend themselves to every method of cooking: boiling, sautéing, steaming or baking (roasting), while the pulp makes fabulous quick breads, soufflés, custards and pies. No wonder there are so many ways to create variety in menus with squash! <br />
No discussion of squash would be complete especially in October without mention of pumpkins, truly a North American native. The exact relationship to squash I am not sure—I leave that to the farmers, but I am told they one in the same. To me cooking the   jack-o-lantern variety doesn’t really deliver results for the amount energy it takes. Except for roasting the seeds, I don’t cook those pumpkins. My produce guy brings me the sweet meat pumpkins that are great for soups and pies, and worth the effort.<br />
Here now are a few of my favorite ways to prepare squash. Soup comes to the top of the list because of the time of year. I am also including my Zucchini mash, which is how I learned to like those watery wonders. <br />
<br />
Here’s how I learned to love zucchini squash. Make them into a mash like potatoes with cream, and then season them well with fresh herbs. Now you’re talking. Note that the summer squash here will make their own liquid but must be watched so they don’t go dry and scorch. <br />
<br />
HERBED END OF SUMMER SQUASH MASH<br />
As needed  EVOO<br />
16 oz. Zucchini or yellow (or combination) squash, small dice<br />
8 oz other winter squash, small diced <br />
4 oz. onions, diced<br />
1 TBS fresh fine herbs minced<br />
2 TBS reduced cream*  <br />
To Taste sea salt<br />
	Method: Place all the cut vegetables and onions in medium sauce pot with a little EVOO . Allow vegetables to steam in the pan without adding water. Cook on medium heat for until tender, about 6-8 min. Roughly mash with potato masher. Add fresh herbs, cream and sea salt to taste. Serve immediately.<br />
*To reduce cream: Start with twice what you want; place into pan over medium high heat. Bring to soft boil and continue a soft boil until evaporates to half the amount. Don’t leave the pot!<br />
FINE HERBS<br />
½ - 1 cup chervil, tarragon, chives, It. parsley<br />
	Method:  Wash and pat very dry equal portions of herbs by volume; mince each and combine into a small bowl.  Cover with paper towel and then plastic and refrigerate. It will keep a only a couple days after chopping so make only what you will use up in 2 days. The whole herbs keep longer in as whole herbs.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
 . <br />
A great menu idea is to use the Curried version here served with Apple cheese turnovers and cilantro yogurt to round out the flavors.<br />
ROASTED WINTER SQUASH SOUP (& CURRIED VARIATION)<br />
2 #butternut squash, peeled, seeded, 1” pieces<br />
to coat EVOO<br />
2 carrots, 1” sliced<br />
1 large onion, large dice<br />
1 TBS thyme<br />
1 qt chicken broth or water<br />
4 teaspoon salt<br />
¼ tsp ground pepper<br />
Optional garnishes:<br />
walnut oil<br />
bleu cheese<br />
toasted walnuts<br />
<br />
<br />
	Method: Preheat oven to 400ºF; place squash, carrots and onion in different roasting pans; drizzle each with olive oil, season with salt & pepper; roast about 45 to 60 minutes or until vegetables are tender and are beginning to caramelize; place vegetables in stockpot; add stock or water, thyme and salt & pepper; simmer until vegetables soften more; strain then purée the solids or pass them through a food mill; save the remaining liquid if desired to adjust consistency later; return purée to pot and adjust seasonings; garnish with walnut oil, bleu cheese and toasted nuts.<br />
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CURRY VARIATION: Add 2 TBS of good curry powder and 1 TBS of ground coriander while the onions are sautéing, then proceed as directed. Serve this version with Apple Turnovers and Cilantro Yogurt. (see recipes) Drizzle in some orange infused olive oil on the hot soup just before serving for optional pizzazz!<br />
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APPLE TURNOVERS WITH MANCHEGO CHEESE<br />
Crust:<br />
2 cups All Purpose flour<br />
¼ tsp. sea salt<br />
4 oz. shortening<br />
4 oz. butter<br />
½ cup iced water	Filling:<br />
1 TBS cinnamon<br />
¾  cup sugar<br />
5-7 Gravenstien or this seasons golden delicious apples, peeled & sliced<br />
Pinch of sea salt and ½ tsp. ground coriander<br />
Manchego (or white cheddar) cheese, about 1 cup crumbled/grated<br />
1-2 TBS butter<br />
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 	Method: Pie crust: Combine flour and salt and sugar; mix to incorporate; add both fats and using a pastry blender, cut into flour; combine water, egg and vinegar into flour mixture and gently fold in to combine; place in plastic film and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour. Roll out dough and cut into 3 inch to 4 inch circles.  Set aside on cookie sheet in refrigerator.<br />
Filling: Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Combine cinnamon, sugar coriander and a pinch of sea salt; toss with the apples. On each circle of dough, place 1 TBS of filling and 1-2 tsp crumbled Manchego cheese. Dot with butter. Fold over making half circle, and crimp with fork. Bake 400°F for 15- 25 minutes.<br />
CILANTRO YOGURT <br />
1 cup yogurt, dried *<br />
¼ red onion, minced<br />
1 TBS cilantro, chopped<br />
To taste: sea salt and freshly ground coriander	Method: Hang yogurt in cheesecloth over bowl or in container large enough to drain; Refrigerate 24 hours before using. It will resemble cheese. Blend remaining ingredients. Season to taste with pinch of sea salt and freshly ground coriander. Serve a dollop on Winter Squash Soup.<br />
This is a traditional recipe for gnocchi for fall. I prefer the yellow variegated or Italian sage that grows well here for this recipe because it is a heartier.<br />
SWEET PUMPKIN GNOCCHI WITH SAGE BUTTER<br />
1# potatoes, russets<br />
1# sweet pumpkin, cut into pieces<br />
1 ¾ - 2 cups AP flour<br />
1 egg<br />
Sea salt<br />
Butter, as needed (1/4 cup)<br />
¼ cup sage, rough chopped	Method:  boil the potatoes in their skins to cook, remove, peel and place through a ricer. Steam pumpkin until tender; remove meat from skin and place in ricer. Combine with potato; work in flour, egg and salt; dough should not be sticky to the touch. Roll into long cylinders on floured surface; cut into desired size and mark with fork or gnocchi paddle; place in boiling salted water and cook until they rise to the surface of the water; drain well – reserve on a sheet pan.<br />
Sauce: Heat butter over moderate flame. Just as the butter begins to brown, add the chopped sage. Strain out the pieces of sage and toss butter with cooked gnocchi; season with pumpkin oil if available, salt pepper and coriander.<br />
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]]></description>
 <category>General</category>
<comments>http://www.cannonbeachcookingschool.com/blog/index.php?itemid=61</comments>
 <pubDate>Tue, 30 Oct 2007 11:46:00 -0600</pubDate>
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